Heard of the word “Izakaya” before? Want to know more about it? You can experience an Izakaya with your friends and meet new people when you visit Japan.
Drinking is not mandatory there! The fact is that you can drink non alcoholic drinks in an izakaya.
What is Izakaya?
Wondering where your Japanese friends hang out and unwind? For many of them, izakaya is their favorite place to go after work.
Izakaya are casual dining and drinking establishments, similar to pubs found in English-speaking countries. The name izakaya means “stay-drink-place”. They are found all over Japan, ranging from local businesses to large national chains.
They are informal and inexpensive places to relax. Fun is the name of the game at most izakaya. If you want to find out how the locals enjoy an easygoing evening out, be sure to visit an izakaya!
Foods & Drinks at Izakaya
Izakaya serve ice-cold beer and a variety of other drinks. The food served is usually meant to go well with beer. It’s a sort of Japanese-style bar food.
This can include what is often thought of as traditional Japanese food, like sashimi, yakitori (chicken skewers), nabe, makizushi, fried shrimps, agemono, salads, pizza, and onigiri (rice balls), as well as food like fried chicken, dumplings (gyoza), fried potato with mayonnaise, and more.
Take a look at this guide to see the most delicious foods you can eat in an izakaya in Japan.
You can learn about izakaya dishes by reading this book.
Otoshi
Also called tsukidashi in western Japan, otoshi is the seating fee that you’ll find throughout Japan. It’s common in izakaya as well as many other establishments.
To foreigners, this often seems like a mysterious charge added for nothing specific, but this is actually a charge for a small service. In izakaya, this is often a small appetizer, that is served when you take a seat.
The izakaya that have otoshi are often smaller, proprietor-owned establishments and not chains. These charges descend from a time when izakaya needed to ensure that customers didn’t sit for hours nursing a drink at their limited seating.
Otoshi vary day by day and are small dishes. They can be delicious, strange, or unpleasant. While you can ask to have them removed, the response will vary, and it is not the politest thing to do in most establishments. It is often the Japanese replacement for tipping, so keep that in mind.
How to Order at an Izakaya
Ordering at an izakaya is a bit different. You are likely going to want to order a beer first, so raise your hand and say “onegaishimasu” to call over one of the staff. You may have to shout to be heard over the crowd.
If you want a draught beer, ask for namabiru (be sure to add a “kudsai” to be polite). Unless you want to learn how to say Japanese numbers, just hold up fingers to let the staff know how many you want.
For food, some izakaya will have menus with pictures on them, others will not. For those that don’t, you’re in luck, because an izakaya is a great place to ask the locals for a recommendation! Try “osusumewa nan desuka?” to someone nearby to ask.
If someone nearby has a dish that looks good, go ahead and ask “sumimasen, sore wa nandesuka?” (“Excuse me, what is that?”).
Nomihodai and Tabehodai
Nomihodai means “all you can drink”. This can be found in numerous izakaya. It does not mean you can drink until you can’t anymore.
The menu you can order from under this rule can be limited and there is usually a time limit, typically either one hour, 90 minutes, or two hours.
This can seem like a wonderful deal, but you’re likely to find that you have to really skip eating or chatting with others to get your money’s worth. It’s also notable that the service seems to slow down when you order under the nomihodai menu.
Tabehodai means “free for all”, essentially “all you can eat”. This is also usually restricted in terms of menu items. This usually only includes the cheaper items the establishment serves.
Smoking
Izakaya are very often smoking establishments, though some non-smoking izakaya also exist but are quite rare. There are no non-smoking sections.
If you don’t care for cigarette smoke, you should look for an establishment that is well ventilated. Classier izakaya may offer private rooms (ask for one by saying “Koshitsu arimasuka?”).
Basic Izakaya Etiquette
Izakaya are some of the more casual public areas in Japan. They’re lively places, but they do have some typical etiquette rules. It’s normal to start your meal with beer.
For politeness’ sake, wait until your party all have drinks before you start drinking. Feel free to say “kanpai!” (cheers!) when you take the first sip together. With food, wait until all have food, then say “Itadakimasu”.
Be sure not to drink too much. It’s common to pour for others if you’re drinking from shared vessels, so it can be easy to end up with too much, so try to keep your cup filled to keep from having to refuse.
Traditional Izakaya use bathroom slippers. These are slippers worn in the bathroom to help keep everything sanitary. Be sure to leave them in the bathroom instead of taking them back to the table (another good reason not to drink too often).
Izakaya etiquette is not something to worry too much about. Just remember to act kindly and with respect. The locals are happy to have you along and will forgive an honest mistake or two if you’re trying.
Izakaya Districts
1. Shinjuku (Tokyo) – This notorious area has multiple red-light establishments alongside izakaya. Stick to larger, well-known chain establishments to avoid entering the wrong kind of place and avoid aggressive salesmen (or women).
Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku area is a popular spot for finding many izakayas and restaurants. It is a narrow alley near Shinjuku Station West Exit.
2. Yurakucho (Tokyo) – This is a more restaurant-focused district and is a very lively place. It’s found predictably beneath the train tracks of Yurakucho Station.
3. Asakusa (Tokyo) – Found west of Sensoji Temple, this nearly 100-meter street is lined with nostalgic izakaya. It’s often called “Hoppy Street” after all the beer sold here and many of the restaurants specialize in beef tendon stew.
In Tokyo, you may also visit Ameya Yokochi, which is located near Ueno Station.
4. Umeda (Osaka) – You can find numerous izakaya here, especially around the areas not of JR Osaka station and the southern side, Kitashinchi.
5. Namba (Osaka) – This is a very popular tourist destination. You can find many izakaya, especially near the colorful Dotonbori area, as well as lots of shopping.
6. Susukino (Sapporo) – Susukino in Sapporo city is the largest entertainment district found in Hokkaido Prefecture, with numerous izakaya, shops, restaurants, karaoke, and so on.
How to Pay Your Bills
When the time for izakaya fun is over, finding your bill can be a bit difficult. It’s usually clipped to a clipboard, either in a slot beneath your table, hanging on a wall, or- if you’re in a private room- hanging outside on the door frame.
It may also be rolled up and sitting in some kind of holder on your table. If you can’t find it, get the staff’s attention by saying “o-kaikei onegaishimasu” (“check please”).
Once you have your bill, you can pay. This can either be done at a register near the entrance or at your table. You can’t leave money on your table, even if you don’t want change. Remember, there’s no tipping in Japan!
Always be sure to check if the izakaya accepts credit cards. While increasingly common, some smaller izakaya still only accept cash. You may want to check before you dine at an establishment.
